Winmark Wines

John Belsham

CONSULTANT WINEMAKER AT WINMARK WINES

“I relish that the learning has never ceased, nor will it.”

When did you realise you wanted to become a winemaker?

Once I started working in the vineyard, and very soon thereafter at the winery as a young apprentice – I was immediately hooked.

Please tell us about your career so far, including your education, work experience, etc.

I commenced my five-year apprenticeship in France at Chateau St. Saturnin at Medoc in 1977. I returned to New Zealand in 1982, taking on an assistant winemaker role at Nobilo. I was appointed as the winemaker for Matua in 1983 and for Hunters in 1987, and shortly after I set up my first bespoke contract winemaking business in New Zealand. In 1992, I founded Foxes Island Wines, of which I remain the owner and winemaker. I founded my consulting business, Wine Focus, in 1994. Since then, I have continued to consult with wineries in New Zealand, Australia, France and Canada.

What do you love most about being a winemaker?

I love the challenge of seeking perfection in an imperfect environment influenced by both internal and external challenges. I also relish that the learning has never ceased, nor will it.

What is your favourite wine, and what food do you typically pair it with?

I enjoy the depth and breadth of the international wine world. Consequently, I have many favourites. The best match is the specialty food of the region with the best wine style of that region.

Is there a specific process you follow when developing a new wine?

Firstly, learn about the region, the vineyard and the plantings on that site. Then, find the best ways of allowing the natural beauty of that site to express itself with limited intervention. This approach takes many years, and the work is never completed. However, it produces the most genuine and enduring results.

Is there a specific process you follow when developing a new wine?

Great wine is made from great fruit. The wines I make are made from the best varieties that suit the region in which they are grown. I have spent my career in New South Wales fine tuning the best varieties and wine styles for the Hunter Valley, Hilltops and Tumbarumba. I seek to make wines that speak of more than just the variety. New wines mustbe able to be made at a high quality in a sustainable and ongoing way, with definite flavour and a distinct personality.

Is there any vintage you’re particularly proud of creating? Why?

The 2022 Shiraz vintage in the Hunter was an outstanding success for me and the team at Hungerford Hill. The vintage conditions were difficult with wet, humid conditions during ripening. However, with dedication we were able to make
 antastic quality wines that have won two trophies at the last two Hunter Valley Wine Shows and gold medals against the best shiraz wines across Australia at national shows.

Is there any vintage you’re particularly proud of creating? Why?

Many for various reasons. However, some significant years have been 1985, 1991, 2002, 2010 and 2022. In each of these excellent vintages, I have made enduring developments in my winemaking.

How does the local climate/soil affect the wine you make?

It is the essence of the wine that I make. Which of your own varieties do you typically indulge in? Chardonnay, in particular.

Where do you see yourself in five years? How do you think your winemaking will evolve during this time?

Making wine and learning how to make it better.

If there is anything else you would like to add, please do so below.

In 2019, I was invited to join the team at Winmark. Vineyard Manager, Dave Grosser, award-winning viticulturist, Liz Riley, and the new owner, Karin Adcock, had already resurrected this once-famous vineyard from severe previous neglect. Within five years, we have transformed this site into one of Australia’s most prestigious single-vineyard chardonnay vineyards. The resultant wines are exceptional and enduring. I am truly privileged to share this vision and to be part of an extraordinary journey.