By Hannah McDonald
The Hunter Valley, Australia’s most historic wine region, is celebrated for crafting wines that captivate with youthful vibrancy while possessing the depth and structure to mature beautifully over decades. Wineries of New South Wales’ Hannah McDonald sits down with Neil McGuigan, CEO of Neil McGuigan Wines, to explore the incredibly unique beauty of the Hunter Valley. With a complex climate and a rich history, the region not only adapts to current trends, but looks forward to the future of winemaking, anticipating the rise of exciting developments hot on the horizon.
When it comes to Australian winemaking, McGuigan has truly done it all. 1978 marked the start of his journey, where he became an officially accredited winemaker with a degree from Roseworthy College in South Australia. Since then, he has worked in a myriad of estates – such as Wyndham, Rothbury, Briar Ridge, Australian Vintage and Neil McGuigan Wines – in a variety of roles, including senior winemaker, general manager and CEO. In 2019, McGuigan retired, returning to a region of special significance, his home vineyard in the Hunter Valley. Finally, in recognition of a dedicated and passionate career, McGuigan was awarded the Hunter Valley Legend Award in 2021, marking his expertise within the region as unrivalled.
The Hunter Valley wine region, with its exquisite variety and high standards, is exceptionally awarded and highly regarded in the Australian winemaking community. “The region’s performance in international wine shows over the past two decades is unparalleled, reflecting a dedication to quality embraced by each generation of winemakers,” McGuigan says. The region is not only a must-see for wine enthusiasts but is also the perfect location for a day trip or a weekend away, with endless activities to suit any visitor. “Experience gourmet meals at renowned restaurants like Muse, Esca or Circa 1876. Unwind at luxurious day spas. Explore beautiful gardens, play golf, go bike riding, or take a hot air balloon ride for stunning views,” McGuigan suggests. “The region’s accessibility, with Newcastle airport just fifty minutes away and Sydney a two-hour drive, makes it an ideal destination for a weekend getaway.”
HOT DAYS, COOL WINES
As one of Australia’s most northerly viticultural regions, the Hunter Valley’s warm to hot climate is a distinguishing feature that allows grapes to fully ripen, enhancing the wines with intense flavours. But McGuigan ensures the grapes do experience some critical reprieve from the heat.
“What sets the Hunter apart is its proximity to the coast, which brings afternoon sea breezes that moderate the day’s heat and increase humidity, reducing vine stress. This unique combination of heat and humidity ensures that the vines retain their flavour, even in challenging years. The result is world-class wines with great aging potential.” The distinctive climate of the Hunter Valley creates intriguing seasons, each offering its own unique appeal and reason to visit. McGuigan explains that September to November is “budburst season with green shoots and the release of current vintage whites and one year reds. Summer events in full swing.” December to February is “harvest season with mechanical and hand grape picking, offering a fascinating glimpse into the winemaking process.” March to May is “post harvest with autumn tones and perfect temperatures for outdoor activities, stunning long lunches and dining. Late May sees some producers offering a first glance of the new vintage whites like semillon, vermentino and verdelho.” Even in the winter months, there are “cozy nights by the fire, perfect for enjoying a glass of Hunter red. The days are fine, picture perfect.”
ROOTS RUN DEEP
Although the Hunter Valley’s climate is a paradox for grape growing, with high temperatures during growing season and frequent rainfall around harvest time, the region has been crafting exceptional wines for nearly 200 years. McGuigan explains, “The Hunter Valley is where Australia’s first commercial vineyards were planted by James Busby in 1826 at Kirkton, just north of Branxton. This historical significance gives the region a unique claim as the birthplace of Australian wine. Busby planted many varieties, with semillon and shiraz proving to be the most successful.”
As a Hunter Valley local, McGuigan recalls the humble beginnings and admires how far the region has come.
“Back in 1973, Robert and Sally Molines started Happy Valley restaurant (thankfully). The local bakery, Sylvesters, made a great damper, and the only accommodation was a pub in town.There was no phone box and mainly gravel roads. Our style has progressed significantly, in all things wine, food and stays. You can still dine with Robert and Sally Molines though – both legends.”
THE MODERN HUNTER
The Hunter Valley remains committed to quality, producing its classic varieties while embracing new styles to stay in tune with modern tastes. “The emergence of boutique wineries brings fresh ideas and passion, with many winemakers available at cellar doors to share their offerings. The region has transformed significantly both in the style of wines and the amazing cellar doors to consider.” McGuigan says. Although consumers are amazed by the aging properties of Hunter Valley semillon, chardonnay and verdelho, the evolving preferences of wine enthusiasts steer in a different direction. “Young consumers are increasingly drawn to aromatic table white wines like grüner veltliner, vermentino and fiano, as well as approachable, fruit-driven sparkling wines rather than classic Champagne styles. In red wines, there’s a preference for fruit-forward, softer styles from varieties such as Montepulciano and tempranillo.”
THE FUTURE IS FERMENTING
The incredible history of The Hunter Valley region continues to be written. McGuigan states, “The Hunter Valley Wine Country Bicentenary in 2028 will be a celebration to mark 200 years of winemaking heritage in Australia’s oldest and one of the nation’s most prestigious wine regions. This celebration not only pays tribute to the pioneers of Australian winemaking but also underscores the region’s ongoing influence and innovation in the global wine market. This is critical as the region’s industry looks toward the next 200 years and ensuring it continues to resonate with future generations.”
Images courtesy of Elfes Images & Hunter Valley Wine & Tourism Association