Andrew Higgins
CHIEF WINEMAKER AT TAMBURLAINE ORGANIC WINES
“I will always strive to make wines that are truly expressive of where they come from.”
When did you realise you wanted to become a winemaker?
I drifted into Wine Science at CSU in 1999, not for the love of wine, but to follow a girlfriend at the time. That relationship didn’t last, but it was soon clear that the career choice was great.
Please tell us about your career so far, including your education, work experience etc.
While I was born and raised in Griffith, my family had no real connection to the wine business. After CSU, I started as a casual cellar hand at McWilliams Wines in Yenda, where I stayed until 2021, finishing as chief winemaker. This was a great experience throughout. We made wines from all fruit from Margaret River to Central Otago, and along the way I did several harvests overseas – in California, Rhone Valley and Bordeaux.
In late 2021, I moved to Tamburlaine as chief winemaker at their Cudal Winery in Orange, working with a great team of experienced viticulturalists, winemakers and cellar operators working together to build on their success. Here we are spoilt with fantastic organic vineyard resources, a modern unique winery and a newly upgraded packaging facility. To have oversight from grape to bottle is a contrast to my previous experience, and one I highly value. I enjoy judging on the Australian Wine Show circuit and was a Len Evans Scholar last year.
What do you love most about being a winemaker?
The ability to craft wines from the grape to the bottle. Tamburlaine has provided me the opportunity to connect winemaking and vineyard sites, which is the essence of winemaking.
The whole process of vintage excites me, from tracking fruit development in the vineyard, through to the critical harvest decisions and the management of each step in the winery. I still love the buzz of activity which comes with each new vintage.
What is your favourite wine, and what food do you typically pair it with?
It’s hard to pick just one variety, let alone one wine… but I guess for me, chardonnay is king. It is the best white varietal and is so flexible in style, yet super Chardonnay is on house pour while the refreshing delicacy and refinement of the Reserve Riesling is a expressive of site. Pan fried fish, classic oven roast chicken (or even greasy KFC). The right style of chardonnay can be matched with almost anything.
Is there a specific process you follow when developing a new wine?
Taste far and wide. Continually benchmark against wines that inspire you. Target the best vineyard site and variety for the style. As they say, great wines are made in the vineyard.
Is there any vintage you’re particularly proud of creating? Why?
It is only early days for me at Tamburlaine, but 2023 was a great season with cool growing conditions and great flavour development. It really showcased the strength of our vineyard resources and organic management. We loved the wines and show results reflected that, picking up five trophies across four varieties at the Orange Wine Show, including Best Current Vintage Chardonnay and winning the Governor’s Trophy and Best Wine of Show at the NSW Wine Awards for our 2023 Reserve Orange Syrah; a first for Tamburlaine, Orange and for an organic wine. 2024 and 2025 vintage results across most varieties are also looking great.
How does the local climate/soil affect the wine you make?
The Orange region and its cooler climate are reflected in the acidity and phenolic profiles of the wines. We have mature vineyards at lower altitude (650m) where the soil is a red-brown loam with varying levels of clay. At 870m is our highest altitude site which is on deep red basalt soil. There are day and nighttime temperature differences, variation in water requirement and vine vigour which require contrasting management techniques to optimise vine health and grape quality. Chardonnay produced in the same season from the two sites is quite different. The lower altitude has intense grapefruit flavours and a rich mouthfeel, while the highest altitude at Borenore is more restrained and greener citrus with a nervy acid spine.
Which of your own varieties do you typically indulge in?
Orange chardonnay is the staple; our 2023 Point 65 close second.
Where do you see yourself in five years? How do you think your winemaking will evolve during this time?
In Orange. It’s a great region which is really making its mark, with a talented and enthusiastic cohort of growers and makers. My family and I are really enjoying the change. It is a great location for community, health and education as well. As a winemaker, I will always strive to make wines that are truly expressive of where they come from. As part of a talented team at Tamburlaine, there is a strong focus on production improvements and plans for new clones and varieties in the vineyards. The future looks pretty bright
From Wineries of New South Wales – Issue 1, edited by Jess Muller