Andrew Thomas
OWNER AND WINEMAKER AT THOMAS WINES
“I love the diversity of my day to day.”
When did you realise you wanted to become a winemaker?
Having grown up in a winemaking family amongst the vines and wines of McLaren Vale, I guess it was my destiny. Although, as a kid I never had much interest in wine as my ambitions were more focused on a career in music. It wasn’t until I worked my first (paid) vintage after high school – and finally realised I wasn’t that great at music – that I pivoted towards the wine industry, and the rest, as they say, is history.
Please tell us about your career so far, including your education, work experience, etc.
Following that very first vintage, I enrolled to study for a degree in Oenology at Roseworthy Agricultural College. Towards the end of those studies, I was offered a position as an assistant winemaker at Tyrrell’s in the Hunter Valley which I duly accepted knowing this would be great start to my career. Over the course of thirteen years under the tutelage of the legendary Murray Tyrrell, I gained a profound respect and understanding for the Hunter Valley’s uniquely regional wine styles. During this time, I also had the opportunity to quench my thirst for more winemaking knowledge and experience with a few northern hemisphere vintages in the Sonoma Valley, Tuscany, Piedmont and Provence.
Towards the end of my time at Tyrrells, the desire to create some world class wines under my own label could no longer be denied. Thomas Wines was established in 1997 with a clear and focused objective to specialise in single vineyard Hunter Valley semillon and shiraz.
What do you love most about being a winemaker?
I love the diversity of my day to day. Vintage/harvest is of course the most
exciting (and stressful) time of year, and this is the time that we get our hands dirty and strive to make the very best wines possible from the whatever conditions the new season throws at us. Being a relatively small producer, I need to be the ‘jack of all trades’ so I get just as much pleasure from my time in the vineyard, being out on the marketing/ sales trail as well as occasionally spending some time in my office actually running the business.
What is your favourite wine, and what food do you typically pair it with?
It would be difficult to pick just one wine, as I love so many different varieties and styles from all over the world, but it would be hard to go past young (or aged) Hunter Semillon which is so unique in the world of wine. Best paired with fresh delicate seafood such as freshly shucked oysters, sashimi, pan fried snapper, etc. Any dish you would think about squeezing a slice of lemon over is pretty much a perfect match for Hunter Semillon.
Is there a specific process you follow when developing a new wine?
Our focus is very much centered on the two signature varieties of the Hunter, so I guess my main consideration for a new single site wine to our range is the stylistic diversity that individual vineyard can deliver.
Is there any vintage you’re particularly proud of creating? Why?
I’m very excited about the upcoming release of our 2023 suite of shiraz this year, it was an outstanding vintage in the Hunter, particularly for reds. At the same time, the 2025 vintage semillons that we have literally just finished picking are looking beautifully classically shaped and very special indeed. Watch this space…
How does the local climate/soil affect the wine you make?
The Hunter has quite a unique combination of a relatively warmer climate and distinctive ancient soils. We occasionally experience some summer rainfall and humidity, which can create some challenges in the vineyard, but most seasons are quite well behaved. Some cloud cover and the cooler evening sea breezes from the coast help to temper those days with higher temperatures. In terms of our soils, generally speaking – and there are always exceptions to this rule – the semillons are grown on the lower lying sandy/loam alluvial flats, while our shiraz is more suited to the elevated darker red loam and clay-based soils.
Which of your own varieties do you typically indulge in?
Well, semillon and shiraz of course! Having said that, I do have a couple of sneaky blends in my range and I’m particularly enjoying our latest release of DJV Shiraz Pinot Noir. It’s a compelling wine that quite intentionally sits in the lighter end of the medium bodied spectrum and is our tribute to traditional ‘Hunter River Burgundy’. On a warm day you can even serve this one with a bit of a chill.
Where do you see yourself in five years? How do you think your winemaking will evolve during this time?
I’m pretty sure I’ll still be here doing what I do. Although with my oldest son Dan having worked alongside me for the last five years now, I’m sure he’ll be taking on some more responsibility with both the winemaking and the running of the business. I’ll be happy just being the guy cleaning the grape bins during vintage. They’ll never have been cleaner…