
Thomas Dunstan
HEAD WINEMAKER AT PIETER VAN GENT WINERY & VINEYARD
“I still get a buzz from the smell that hits you the first time you fill a new French Oak barrel”
When did you realise you wanted to become a winemaker?
After two years of studying economics at Sydney University, I realised that world wasn’t for me. A close friend was studying Wine Science at Charles Sturt University, which sounded like a lot more fun – and it was. I enrolled not long after and haven’t looked back since.
Please tell us about your career so far, including your education, work experience etc.
I’m originally from Sydney’s Northern Beaches. I began my wine studies in 2012 at Charles Sturt University, completing a Bachelor of Wine Science and a Bachelor of Viticulture. Since then, I’ve worked vintages across key regions including Orange, Rutherglen and Mudgee. In 2023, I took the role of head winemaker at Pieter van Gent Winery, where I continue to focus on crafting wines that reflect both regional character and seasonal nuance.
What do you love most about being a winemaker?
The wine community – it’s welcoming, down-to earth, and full of generous people. I still get a buzz from the smell that hits you the first time you fill a new French Oak barrel. It never gets old.
What is your favourite wine, and what food do you typically pair it with?
I’ve always had a soft spot for dry rieslings and blanc de blancs. Paired with fresh seafood, the crisp acidity and minerality in the wine bring everything into balance – it’s hard to beat.
Is there a specific process you follow when developing a new wine?
Not a set process as such. Every season brings its own conditions, so I try to stay flexible and let the fruit guide the decisions. I’m always open to trying new techniques or styles to keep things fresh and interesting.
Is there any vintage you’re particularly proud of creating? Why?
The 2023 and 2024 vintages in Mudgee really stand out. We had the kind of conditions that let the fruit ripen at a steady pace and build flavour without losing balance. It gave me the chance to craft wines that feel authentic to both the region and my own style – layered, textural and enjoyable to drink.
How does the local climate/soil affect the wine you make?
Mudgee has a true continental climate – warm days, cool nights, and the kind of seasonal shifts that help develop flavour while keeping natural acidity. The soil here is a mix of sandy loam and volcanic earth over clay, which offers great drainage while still holding enough nutrients to support steady, even ripening.
That combination is ideal for producing balanced, flavour-driven wines – whether it’s structured reds or fresh, vibrant whites. The key is understanding how those conditions affect ripening and knowing when to harvest to get the best expression from each variety. With growing interest in alternative varieties, it’s a great region for exploring new styles and pushing boundaries.
Which of your own varieties do you typically indulge in?
Currently, I’m enjoying our 2024 chardonnays. They’ve got a lovely balance, freshness and just the right amount of texture – great with food, or just on their own.
Where do you see yourself in five years? How do you think your winemaking will evolve during this time?
Hopefully still making wines that people enjoy – wines that are approachable, thoughtfully made, and shared over a good meal. I think over time, my focus will continue to shift toward refining technique, embracing more sustainable practices, and getting the most honest expression out of the fruit.
From Wineries of New South Wales – Issue 1, edited by Jess Muller